Chapter 26 The One Where We Discovered We Didn’t Have A Guide… 

I woke feeling pretty nauseous but definitely well rested and just decided to power on and head out on our jeep up to our start point. Pemba waved us off and with Cammi sat silently in the front seat, Dad and I had no idea what we were in for! We parked up and Cammi obligingly took my sleeping bag as I couldn’t fit it into my monster of a trek bag – all he had with him was an adorable boys school bag so I figured he could handle it. We began with an absolute mission of about a million steps – I’m obviously exaggerating here but god it was steep and relentless for at least 2 hours and I was powered by only ramen and 3 ritz biscuits. Worryingly at this point the only mention of extreme trekking was for our third day so god knows what we had in store for us… We finally stopped for a water break, albeit enforced by us as opposed to our guide who was just silently stoically powering on ahead. The man at the counter of this little path-side cafe explained it would be a further 3 hours to buy water so presumably our ‘guide’ would have been content with us struggling on without… Our hiking EVENTUALLY led us to some flat and even a little downhill where we could overlook the beautiful valleys beneath us and take a much more comfortable pace than Cammi’s near jog! Prayer flags decorated our route and with the sun overhead it was sweaty but glorious! It was almost over too soon when we reached Chisopani our first stop to sleep. 

The village was made up of about 2 lodges still standing and the rest was completely destroyed – buildings emptied and violently tilting or missing half of their structures! Having reached our stop at about 2pm dad and I were totally exhausted but felt we should try and stay awake at least until the sunset! We were shown to a surprisingly cosy room with an ensuite and everything and spent the afternoon journaling outside in the sunshine. We were eventually joined by other trekkers including two Dutch guys who were doing the opposite route to us and gave us a little idea of what was in store – by their advice we had two pretty tough 7-8 hour days ahead! After our 4 hour day that day had become 5 we were a little nervous as to what would lie in store! As we sat watching the sunset out of nowhere a group of about 10 Nepalese ‘lads’ turned up blasting music be revving their bike engines to swagger about in front of us in a display worthy of Attenborough style commentary before sitting down finally to eat! We followed suit sneaking in hot showers before the water would presumably run out and I managed to keep down a hot bowl of veg noodle soup which I hoped would set me in better stead for the following day. Exhausted we both fell asleep easily before 7pm super snug in our sleeping bags!


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